Monthly Archives: October 2020

Can I have your cam specs?

No 🙂

We all see things from a different point of view, here is mine.

I get asked this time and time again, here is why I don’t:

The first and most obvious reason is when you’ve spent thousands of pounds developing unique and winning profiles you are not about to advertise them so they can be copied! People rip off other peoples ideas and designs all the time, I know all about that. I do have my own spec of cams, they are absolutely not ‘off the shelf’ grinds available to anyone. They are made to order, I do not usually have stock.

Secondly, what will do with the figures? Is 8, 9 or 10mm lift on the exhaust better than 11? Do you know what your exhaust port flow is and how to match a cam from that? Is a 250 or 270 duration better? When would you have 1mm of inlet valve lift at TDC or 3? If you know all the answers to this then you can design your own cams so i’m unsure why you would be asking me for the figures. Well ok I do, see paragraph 1 ^

Now you’re thinking here that you want some specs so you can compare it to others, but here is a thing, you don’t know what method of measurement I or anyone else uses, so a direct comparison is impossible.

Lancia for instance measured the advertised duration of their cams with a shim clearance of .8mm. In reality a standard engine runs with .35 and .4mm of clearance so any published figures weren’t relative nor comparable to anything! It’s still the same now. Take a C&B cam with an advertised 265 degrees. Is that 265 with any valve clearance, no valve clearance, how much valve clearance? At .1mm of lift, at 1mm of lift or (if it’s how the Americans quote it) at.050″ which is 1.27mm? The cam card doesn’t tell you. Ask them and it’s unlikely they will tell you (I asked, they wouldn’t), if they do would you believe them anyhow?

A cam duration figure ‘seat to seat’ with no clearance coupled with a duration figure taken at 1mm (or 1.27) gives a much clearer representation of a cam yet C&B don’t give you all that info.

If a cam has a duration of 265 then the valve may only see 245 of it after lash is set.

If you set the lash tighter than standard then the valve may see 255 degrees from open to close.

Is quoted lift at the valve or cam with or without clearance?

Should you use standard valve clearances on a modified engine with bigger cams?

I’m guessing that 99% of the people reading this have no answers to most of this, yet still they ask for cam specs. If you don’t know what you’re talking about why are you asking?!

It’s like going to buy a new Ford car and asking them what size valves or what cam duration it has. A. they won’t know, and B if they did, what would you do with that info, compare it to Nissans? You just have to accept that they know what they’re doing and buy the car.

The third reason is this and i’ve proven it time after time over the years. The people that ask all the questions before buying anything were never going to buy anything anyway. Also the hours I’ve spent answering their endless questions I could have been earning money building an engine or something. I am an engine builder, i’m not a salesman.

Last of all is this: As you just learned I am an engine builder and specifier and not a salesman. My message to you is this, if I’ve done all the hard work (and I have had many years of experience with just this engine) I am offering you the chance to buy the parts which I know work; my winning recipe. You’re getting the chance to either have a proper engine built and specified or buy those same bits to do it yourself. You can also go elsewhere, have less power than expected or completely mess it up yourself. That’s fine, it’s your choice to make. That’s how I roll, the offer is there for you to take it or not and that is your decision, I can’t make it for you.

So to answer your question, my favourite profiles have a lift of 12 and 11, a duration of 255 and 275. So now armed with that info make a decision 😉

Sending money via Paypal, as ‘Friends or family’ or not?

For various reasons at Deltaparts we don’t have an automated online shop at the moment. We do however take bank transfers and Paypal payments.

Paypal offer insurance, this is against me running off with your money and is approximately 4% of the total due. This means I have to pay them £4 in every £100. If someone spends £1000 I lose £40, as you can imagine on a whole years worth of sales this adds up to a lot of money.

Recently someone asked for a bulk discount (which I granted) then paid a £4600+ via PP who in turn took £227 from me. So what was the point in me going to work that day? Well there wasn’t, I might as well have stayed in bed.

Now from your point of view you might think you need the insurance, from my point of view I know you don’t need it, nor do I want to pay it on your behalf.

So what to do? Well the answer is quite simple, I give YOU have the option on whether to pay it or not. If you feel the need to pay it then all prices are +4%, if you don’t want to pay it then you can send the money via PP using their ‘Friends & family’ option.

The only other solution is to put all prices up by 4% and not give anyone the option, I don’t think this is a good idea, I believe you should have the right to opt out to save money.

It amazes me that whilst we have had PP for so many years now that so many people don’t understand it, nor know how to use it. I suppose this down to our automated online shopping experiences and also the fact that everyone does everything via a mobile phone (which is a crap way to view the internet World in my opinion, but that’s for another blog maybe!).

So here you go, here below is how to send money for free using Paypal. The only things which may not work is that my view is from a computer and in the UK, if you’re using a phone and somewhere else it may well look different, we can but try.

Once i’ve logged in and gone to ‘Send money’ it looks like this with the recipients email address filled in:

Next we fill in the amount we are sending:

THEN HERE IS THE IMPORTANT BIT! This is where you have the choice to pay the fee or not:

Here are a couple of shots of what it looks like when I send money out of the EU, you can see it tells me exactly what the recipient gets:

And exactly how much it is costing me, it’s a flat fee, not a percentage:

Here it outlines what you’ve done:

So hopefully this gives you some idea of what to do. Admittedly it may look a little different on your screen, also some features are not open to everyone in every country, it may also change with what your PP account is attached to (a credit card or bank account etc).